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Understanding pearl quality

Natural character
in balance with luster.

Pearl blemishes, also called "ekubo" (dimples). We look at a pearl's beauty not only by its surface but through its relationship with luster and nacre.

Many pearls gathered in a light blue basket
Many pearls gathered in a light blue basket
01

About pearlblemishes(dimples)

In pearls, blemishes are also called "ekubo" (dimples). They are not marks made by bumping into something after the pearl became a product, but bumps and dents that formed naturally during cultivation.

Almost no pearls are free of blemishes, so we use them by carefully choosing where to drill.

We look at the position of blemishes and the balance of color and luster to sort pearls for half-drilled and fully drilled use. Since more of a half-drilled pearl is visible, we use pearls with fewer blemishes for it.

Unlike other gems, pearls cannot be polished to remove blemishes, so blemishes can be called proof that they are natural.

02

Types of blemishes

Slight blemishes

A pearl with small blemishes on its surface
A pearl with small blemishes on its surface

Moderate blemishes

A pearl with several small dents on its surface
A pearl with several small dents on its surface

Heavy blemishes

A pearl with a large dent on its surface
A pearl with a large dent on its surface
03

Comparing blemishes and luster

Few blemishes and strong luster are two different points of evaluation. Compare the photos and look at the overall glow.

04

Blemishes and nacre

Pearl blemishes are closely related to nacre. Since blemishes form in the sea, a shorter cultivation period makes pearls with fewer blemishes more likely.

However, the nacre becomes thinner as a result, and luster may be lost.

Especially for fully drilled pearls, apart from those with too many blemishes, a pearl looks more beautiful when luster takes priority over a moderate amount of blemishes.

A pearl with good luster seems to glow from its core, so its blemishes are less noticeable.

Of course, blemish-free pearls do exist.

Blemish-free pearls with good luster are extremely rare, and most of them are made into rings.